Three-way loading of carabiners. This issue is often presented as black-and-white and is rarely given much consideration. Most users know that manufacturers warn against certain loadings but what does this really mean? Carabiner manufacturers show that is
This article goes beyond the standard rule-of-thumb “90° puts 141% on the redirect anchor”. If we have a suspended load with a 90º redirection through an aluminium carabiner then we can calculate the effects of friction through